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Asphalt shingles are composed of mats made from organic or fiberglass mate-rial impregnated with asphalt, in which are embedded colored mineral gran-ules. Organic-base asphalt shingles, also called composition shingles, have a felt mat made from wood and paper fibers. Fiberglass-base asphalt shin-gles, commonly called fiberglass shin-gles, have a fiberglass mat. Asphalt roofing is also manufactured in the form of roll roofing (page 33).

Though shapes vary, many as-phalt shingles are notched at intervals to form tabs, giving the appearance of smaller units. They usually last from 15 to 25 years, depending on the climate and type of mat. Asphalt shingles that are aging may show bald spots; an-other clue to aging is a heavy accumu-lation of granules in the gutters, indi-cating crumbling shingles.

Check your roof’s condition on a warm day when the shingles are flex-ible. Remove a tiny piece of the corner from one or two shingles on each roof plane; the core of the shingle should be black. Gently bend several shingles back to see if they’re flexible. If a num-ber of shingles appear gray and bloated, if the material crumbles easily or if you see large bare spots or dam-aged areas, consider replacing the roof.

Cracked, torn, or curled shingles can be repaired, as shown below; re-place any loose or missing nails. If
some of the shingles are badly worn or damaged, replace them (see below). Use shingles that remain from the origi-nal roof installation. If you don’t have any leftover shingles, you’ll have to buy new onesidentical in brand, color, and size, if possible. Fasten the shin-gles with galvanized roofing nails long enough to penetrate all roofing layers (at least 11/2 inches long).

Don’t remove a damaged shingle that’s on a ridge or along a hip; instead, nail each corner in place. Then apply roofing cement to the bottom of a new shingle and place it over the defective one. Nail each corner, then cover the nail heads with roofing cement.

When you repair asphalt shingles, do the work on a warm day when the shingles are more pliable; cold shingles are brittle and can break easily Also, have roofing cement at room tempera-ture so it will spread more easily.

Three Shingle Repairs

Replacing An Asphalt Shingle

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Wood shingles have a smooth, finished appearance; wood shakes have a rough-hewn look. Both are made from western red cedar. Shingles are sawn into lengths of 16, 18, or 24 inches. Shakes, which are thicker than shin-gles, are split by machine or by hand into 18 or 24-inch lengths. Both come in random widths.

Shingles and shakes are laid in overlapping courses, or rows. Shingles either have a continuous underlayment of roofing felt or none at all; shakes alternate with strips of felt. Both shin-gles and shakes may be laid directly on the sheathing or over an earlier roof-ing surface, such as asphalt shingles. They are attached with galvanized roofing nails.

Wood shingles and shakes usually last between 15 and 25 years, depend-ing on the roof slope and the climate. If you suspect wear, inspect the roof for curled, broken, or split shingles, and for shingles that have been lifted by wind. Look also for shingles thinned by weathering and erosion, especially around areas where an attic inspection reveals pinpoints of light (page 29). Wood shakes show their age when the
wood crumbles easily underfoot or be-tween your fingers.

The extent of the defects you find will indicate whether you need to repair or replace shingles or shakes. If only a few shingles or shakes are split or wind-lifted, you can repair them; those that are badly splintered or curled or that have begun to crumble should be re-placed (for instructions, see illustrations at right). If the damage is extensive, consider replacing the entire roof.

To remove the nails from a dam-aged shingle or shake you’re re-placing, either rent a shingle ripper or use a hacksaw blade. To use the ripper, slide it under the shingle and around a nail; then cut the shank of the nail with a hammer blow (see at right).

Since shingles and shakes are ran-dom widths, you’ll need to trim the new ones to fit the space, using a roofer’s hatchet or a saw. Leave a V4-inch clear-ance on each side of every replace-ment piece to allow for expansion of the wood.

Repairing A Wood Shingle Or Shake

Replacing A Wood Shingle Or Shake

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Homes with flat or low-sloping roofs usually have a built-up roof surface, also called a tar-and-gravel roof.
Sheds, garages, and other out-buildings are sometimes roofed with asphalt roll roofing.

A built-up roof consists of several layers of roofing felt, each coated with hot or cold-mopped asphalt. The top layer is surfaced with crushed gravel or rock. These roofs generally last from 10 to 20 years, depending on the sun’s intensity.

Asphalt roll roofing, made in the same way as asphalt shingles (page 31), has a lifetime of 5 to 15 years. Sometimes, roll roofing of a matching color is used to cover the valleys of an asphalt shingle roof.

Leaks in a flat roof are usually easy to locatethey tend to be directly above the wet area on the ceiling.
Leaks may develop at flashings (page 34) or where wind has blown the gravel away to expose the surface. Leaks are also likely where weather and wear have caused blistered asphalt, sepa-rations between the roof surface and the drip edge, curling or split roofing felt that’s exposed, and cracks or holes in the roof material.

Repairs are the same for both built-up and roll roofing. Fill in any cracks with roofing cement. If you’re re-pairing a blister or small hole (see be-low), cut the patch you need from either a piece of roll roofing or an asphalt shin-gle. Use galvanized roofing nails to secure the patch. Any hole larger than a square foot should be patched by a professional roofer.

If your roof is beyond repair and must be replaced, it’s best to call in a professional. Resurfacing a flat roof
with layers of roofing felt and hot-mopped asphalt is beyond the scope of most homeowners because of the
processes and equipment involved; moreover, working with hot molten asphalt is a messy difficult, and even dangerous job.

Repairing A Blister

Patching A Hole

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