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Both aluminum and vinyl siding panels have interlocking flanges along both edges. The panels are nailed to the sheathing through slots along one flange; the other flange interlocks with the adjacent panel. Panels may be installed vertically or horizontally You can successfully repair minor dents, scratches, and corrosion in aluminum siding. More extensively dam-aged aluminum siding or damaged vinyl siding usually can’t be repaired; instead, it must be replaced, as shown below.

Repairing aluminum siding
To remove a dent in aluminum siding, drill a hole in the center of the dent and screw in a self-tapping screw with two washers under the screw head (the screw cuts its own thread as it’s driven in). Gently pull on the screw head with a pair of pliers. Remove the screw and fill the hole with plastic aluminum filler (fol-low directions on the tube). When dry sand the filler smooth and touch up with matching paint.

Conceal scratches in aluminum siding by applying metal primer over the scratch. When the primer is dry
coat with latex house paint.

Repair corrosion by cleaning the rust off with fine steel wool. Prime the area with rust-resistant metal primer and cover with latex paint.

Typical Aluminum Or Vinyl Panels

Replacing aluminum siding
If a section of your aluminum siding is damaged beyond a simple surface repair, you can replace it by cutting out the damaged part of the panel, leaving the nailed portion in place (see below). Use tin snips to cut the new section of siding (it should overlap the existing siding by 3 inches on each side); then install it.

Replacing vinyl siding
If vinyl siding is cracked or punctured, you must remove the entire damaged section before you can install a replacement piece. To do this, you’ll need a special tool called a “zipper” to separate the interlocked panels. It’s best to do the work during warm weather, when the vinyl is pliable.

Using the zipper, unlock the panel adjacent to or above the damaged one and lift it up to expose the nails securing the damaged panel. Pry out the nails. Mark cutting lines on each side of the damaged area, using a carpenter’s square and pencil. With tin snips or a back saw, cut the panel along the lines and remove the damaged section. Cut a replacement piece 2 inches longer than the section you just re-moved to allow for a 1-inch overlap on each end. (Cut only 1 inch longer if the damaged section ends at a corner or joint.) Snap the top edge of the new section in place and nail it with aluminum box nails long enough to, pene-trate 1 inch into the sheathing. Using the zipper, snap in the other edge.

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Replacing A Damaged Section Of Aluminum Siding

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Window sills bear the brunt of snow, rain, and sun. Though they’re designed to be tough, it’s no wonder they show signs of wear. Annual main-tenance-filling cracks with putty caulking the edges, and repainting sills
regularly-can prolong their life.

To restore a sill that’s not badly damaged, clean out cracked or rotted wood with a chisel and screwdriver.
Then soak the sill with wood pre-servative. When dry (about 24 hours), coat it with linseed oil and let it dry Then fill in any cracks or holes with wood or epoxy putty If a crack or hole is very deep, build up the putty in layers, letting each layer dry completely. Prime and repaint the sill (for painting tips.

A sill can also be patched with fi-berglass patching material, which is pliable and waterproof. This material conceals holes and cracks but doesn’t fill them, so you may first want to build up deep cracks with putty Check at a paint or hardware store for fiberglass patching material and the tools and instructions needed to apply it.
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