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If your sheet flooring is stained or has suffered minor surface damage such as bubbles or small holes, see below and on the facing page for repair instructions. If the damage is more serious, you can patch the area with a
new piece of flooring (see at right).

In patching, the trick is to match the patch to the existing floor. If you decide to patch rather than lay all new flooring, you’ll need a replacement piece larger than the damaged area.

When you position the patch, be careful to align the pattern on the patch
with the pattern on the existing flooring.

Use a sharp utility or linoleum knife and a steel straightedge to cut through the flooring; you’ll need a putty knife to pry up the damaged area and scrape off the old adhesive on the subfloor. If necessary, apply adhesive solvent to remove the damaged flooring and the old adhesive.

To set the new patch, use solventbase adhesive or the adhesive used in the original installation. The patch must be level with the existing floor. If the
patch is too low, lift it up and apply more adhesive. If it’s too high, press it down to squeeze out excess adhesive. Use the recommended solvent to remove excess adhesive. Follow the adhesive manufacturer’s directions for drying time.

Patching Damaged Sheet Flooring

Removing Stains From Resilient Flooring

To prevent stains in resilient tile and sheet flooring, wipe up spills promptly. Stubborn stains or stains that have set require a bit more work, and even some experimentation.

First try to remove the stain by wiping it with a clean white cloth moistened with liquid detergent floor cleaner (use a nylon pad dipped in the detergent for heavy residue).

If detergent doesn’t remove the stain, try the following products, one at a time and in order: rubbing alcohol, liquid chlorine bleach, turpentine, nail polish remover, and lighter fluid.

CAUTION: Do not apply nail polish remover to vinyl and vinyl-asbestos; turpentine, nail polish remover, or lighter fluid to asphalt or rubber tile; or chlorine bleach to natural cork.

Apply each product with a clean white cloth, turning the cloth frequently. Don’t walk on the treated area for 30 minutes. When the stain is gone, rinse the area with water and let it dry; reapply floor finish, such as vinyl floor polish or wax, if it’s normally used.

Avoid using abrasive scouring powders or pads on resilient flooring, no matter what type you have. Before using any cleaning product, in fact, it’s a good idea to test it on an inconspicuous area. If you’re in doubt about what cleaning product to use on your floor, consult your flooring dealer.

By : E-book Home repair

Minor stains or surface damage on resilient tile can be easily corrected, but more serious damage may mean replacing one or more tiles.

To remove surface stains, see the facing page. Directions for refastening curled tiles or repairing bubbles or small holes appear below.

If a tile is badly scratched or gouged, you’ll have to take it up and replace it (see at right). If you have an exact match, your repair will be almost invisible, provided the existing tiles aren’t discolored.

To remove the damaged tile, you’ll

need a propane torch with a flame spreader or an iron; use a stiff putty knife to lift up the damaged tile and to remove the adhesive. When you’ve removed the tile, let the adhesive cool and harden (it will take about an hour) before you scrape it away Check that the subfloor is smooth and flat. Set the replacement tile in the same type of ad-hesive used in the original installation or in a solvent-base adhesive.

Be sure the new tile is level with the adjacent ones. If it’s too low, lift it up and apply more adhesive. If it’s too high, press it down to squeeze out excess adhesive. Use the recommended solvent to remove excess adhesive and let the adhesive dry completely before walking on-the floor.

Replacing a Damaged Tile

Three Repairs For Common Surface Damage

By : E-book Home repair

Prefabricated ceiling tiles are attached either to an existing ceiling or to furring strips. Staples or nails, either with or without adhesive, or adhesive alone secures the tiles.

Often, ceiling tiles show the effect of water damage. To conceal stains or streaks in tiles, apply a primer or clear sealer. When the tiles are dry, you can paint them with latex paint.

Another problem you may encounter is dents or chips in tiles. Illus-trated at right are the steps in removing and replacing a dented tile with tongue and-groove edges. You cut through all four joints and pry the tile off its backing; pry out the cut-off tongues from the grooves in the adjacent tiles. Use pliers to remove remaining staples or nails; scrape off adhesive.

After cutting the tongue off one side of the replacement tile, apply ad-hesive to the back of the tile or to the ceiling (follow the tile manufacturer’s directions). Position the tile over the opening, slip the remaining tongue into the groove of an adjacent tile, and press in place until the adhesive holds; or use a floor-to-ceiling brace to hold the tile until the adhesive is dry.

Replacing a Damaged Ceiling Tile

By : E-book Home repair