Gypsum Wallboard
Replacing A Wallboard Panel
Techniques For Working With Wallboard
Gypsum wallboard is used as a backing for many wall treatments wallpaper, fabric, tile, and even some paneling. Standard wallboard is composed of a fire-resistant gypsum core
sandwiched between two layers of paper. Some wallboard is waterresistant for use in bathrooms and other damp areas. Though panels are usually 4 by 8 feet and V2 inch thick, dimensions can vary.
Wallboard panels may be fastened to wall studs or furring strips (see drawing on page 85) and attached with wallboard nails, annular-ring nails, or adhesive. Usually joints between panels are covered with wallboard tape and several layers of joint compound. Wallboard repairs range from fixing minor dents to replacing an entire panel. When the work is done, the repaired area should blend with the surrounding surface.
Making minor repairs
Wallboard can be plagued with a variety of minor ills, among them dents, small nail or screw holes, and popped nails. These problems can usually be repaired as shown below with simple techniques and tools spackling com-pound, patching plaster, or joint com-
pound, and a putty knife, a claw hammer, and sandpaper. After fixing the damage, you’ll need to sand and prime the area, and finish it to match the rest of the wall.
Repairing a large hole
To repair a large hole, the damaged section of wallboard must be cut out and replaced with a new piece of the same thickness (see facing page). After taping and sanding the joints to smooth them, you’ll have to finish the surface to blend closely with the adjacent area.
Cutting and nailing. To remove the damaged wallboard, first locate the wall studs. Use a keyhole saw and utility knife to cut out the section, centering side cuts over studs.
CAUTION: To avoid danger from electrical wires behind the walls, shut off the power to the circuit and run a light from another circuit. Cut the replacement piece and smooth rough edges with a perforated rasp; then nail the new piece in place (see for nailing techniques).
Taping and sanding. This step, the key to blending the repair with the surrounding surface, is done in stages over a period of days. The tools and supplies you’ll need include ready-
mixed all-purpose joint compound; 2 inch perforated or mesh wallboard tape; 4, 6, and 10-inch taping knives; and No. 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.
NOTE: To finish water-resistant wall-board, use water-resistant joint com-pound (follow the package directions). Apply tape and layers of joint com-pound, following the steps on the fac-ing page (see for finishing corners). To apply compound, dip the edge of a clean blade into the compound, loading about half the blade.
Apply the compound across the joint; then, holding the knife at a 45? angle to the wall, draw the blade along the joint. Using increasingly wider knives for each layer makes the joint smoother.
Let each layer dry for at least 24 hours. When dry wet-sand the com-pound to remove minor imperfections by wetting the compound with a sponge and sanding along the joints with sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Never sand the wallboard itself the scratches may shov, / through the finish.
CAUTION: When sanding, wear goggles and a painter’s mask. Finishing. Wipe the wallboard with a damp sponge to remove sanding resi-due. If you want to paint, apply a primer or base coat. For wallpaper, seal the wallboard with shellac or varnish. If you need to match a textured wall surface, use one of the techniques described.
Three Minor Repairs
Repairing A Large Hole In Wallboard
Replacing A Wallboard Panel
Gypsum wallboard is used as a backing for many wall treatments wallpaper, fabric, tile, and even some paneling. Standard wallboard is com-posed of a fire-resistant gypsum core
sandwiched between two layers of paper. Some wallboard is waterresistant for use in bathrooms and other damp areas. Though panels are usually 4 by 8 feet and V2 inch thick, dimensions can vary.
Wallboard panels may be fastened to wall studs or furring strips (see drawing on page 85) and attached with wallboard nails, annularring nails, or adhesive. Usually joints between panels are covered with wallboard tape and several layers of joint compound. Wallboard repairs range from fixing minor dents to replacing an entire panel. When the work is done, the repaired area should blend with the surrounding surface.
Making minor repairs
Wallboard can be plagued with a variety of minor ills, among them dents, small nail or screw holes, and popped nails. These problems can usually be repaired as shown below with simple techniques and tools spackling com-pound, patching plaster, or joint compound, and a putty knife, a claw hammer, and sandpaper. After fixing the damage, you’ll need to sand and prime the area, and finish it to match the rest of the wall.
Repairing a large hole
To repair a large hole, the damaged section of wallboard must be cut out and replaced with a new piece of the same thickness (see facing page). After taping and sanding the joints to smooth them, you’ll have to finish the surface to blend closely with the adjacent area.
Cutting and nailing. To remove the damaged wallboard, first locate the wall studs. Use a keyhole saw and utility knife to cut out the section, centering side cuts over studs.
CAUTION: To avoid danger from electrical wires behind the walls, shut off the power to the circuit and run a light from another circuit.
Cut the replacement piece and smooth rough edges with a perforated rasp; then nail the new piece in place (see for nailing techniques).
Taping and sanding. This step, the key to blending the repair with the surrounding surface, is done in stages over a period of days. The tools and supplies you’ll need include readymixed all-purpose joint compound; 2 inch perforated or mesh wallboard tape; 4, 6, and 10-inch taping knives; and No. 600 grit silicon carbide sandpaper.
NOTE: To finish water-resistant wall-board, use water-resistant joint compound (follow the package directions). Apply tape and layers of joint com-pound, following the steps on the facing page (see for finishing corners). To apply compound, dip the edge of a clean blade into the compound, loading about half the blade.
Apply the compound across the joint; then, holding the knife at a 45? angle to the wall, draw the blade along the joint. Using increasingly wider knives for each layer makes the joint smoother.
Let each layer dry for at least 24 hours. When dry wet-sand the com-pound to remove minor imperfections by wetting the compound with a sponge and sanding along the joints with sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. Never sand the wall-board itself the scratches may shov, / through the finish.
CAUTION: When sanding, wear goggles and a painter’s mask.
Finishing. Wipe the wallboard with a damp sponge to remove sanding resi-due. If you want to paint, apply a primer or base coat. For wallpaper, seal the wallboard with shellac or varnish. If you need to match a textured wall surface, use one of the techniques described.
Hanging A Replacement Panel
Techniques For Working With Wallboard
Working with wallboard involves using special techniques when you’re cutting it, nailing it, or working with corners.
When cutting wallboard, get a helper to hold the panel while you mark, score, and break it. When you nail wallboard, it’s important to dimple the surface without puncturing the face
paper or crushing the core. It takes practice the secret is to hammer the nail heads squarely.
To tape corners, you’ll need a cor-ner tool and precreased tape for inside corners, metal cornerbead for outside corners. As with other joints, you feather the compound edges with 6 and 10-inch taping knives.
Cutting Wallboard
Nailing Wallboard
Taping Wallboard Corners
